Cold comfort: the positive effects – and limitations

The therapeutic use of cold has centuries-old roots, yet recent innovations and celebrity endorsements have thrust these frosty practices into the limelight. From the exhilarating rush of a cold plunge to the soothing touch of a chilled facial roller, the spectrum of treatments is as broad as it is intriguing.

This resurgence in popularity owes much to high-profile advocates like Jennifer Aniston, Daniel Craig, Alicia Keys, Jessica Alba and Demi Moore – celebrities who have loudly opened up about their positive experiences and the benefits they’ve apparently noticed.

But can immersing oneself in cold water or applying an ice-cold facial truly transform one’s skin and health, or are there limits to their efficacy? With the wide assortment of cold-based beauty treatments available, from luxurious skincare lines to DIY icing techniques, navigating this trend can be overwhelming.

When we expose our bodies to cold, physiological reactions unfold. “Initially, cold exposure triggers vasoconstriction, a reflex where blood vessels constrict to preserve heat and maintain core body temperature,” says Keiko Negishi, aesthetician and skin therapist at FILD Studio. “This effect is especially noticeable on the skin and the extremities, which might start to feel numb or less sensitive as blood flow is redirected to protect vital organs.”

This abrupt change often results in a tightening sensation for the skin, which can reduce inflammation and swelling by minimising blood flow to the affected areas.

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Over the last decade, various methods have championed the use of cold for wellness, but the Wim Hof Method stands out as the definitive leader. Founded by Wim Hof, also known as “The Iceman”, this method combines deliberate cold exposure with specific breathing techniques and meditation. Its core belief is that regular, mindful engagement with the cold can profoundly boost health, vitality and wellness, offering benefits like improved immune function, increased energy, better stress management and greater endurance. Hof’s method has not only intrigued the wellness community but has also attracted scientific interest, beginning to validate some of its impressive claims.

The appeal of cold treatments is vast, from the thrilling venture of cryotherapy chambers to the ice facials. Experts highlight that cold plunges, which involve immersing oneself in ice-cold water, offer both immediate sensory awakening and profound health benefits.

“The cold shock enhances circulation, helping the body to warm itself, thus improving blood flow and nutrient delivery to the skin,” Negishi says. This boost in circulation is vital to achieving a healthier, more glowing complexion by helping to flush out toxins and reduce inflammation.

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Transitioning from full immersion to the targeted application of cold in beauty treatments, ice facials emerge as a less intense but still effective option. Whether simply using ice cubes or specialised cryotherapy tools, these treatments calm the skin, diminishing inflammation as the cool temperature constricts blood vessels, easing redness and swelling and providing an instant lift – ideal for reviving a puffy face or recovering from a sleepless night.

Recently, several products have made a mark by offering benefits ranging from cooling and de-puffing to revitalising and toning. A great example is 111Skin’s Cryo De-puffing line, which has won over users looking to refresh their skin and reduce puffiness by leveraging cryotherapy techniques used in medical treatments.

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Charlotte Tilbury’s Cryo Mask and Anne Semonin’s Express Radiance Ice Cubes are other notable mentions in the cold beauty trend. The cryo mask, enriched with firming ingredients and kept chilled, offers an immediate lift when applied. Meanwhile, the Express Radiance Ice Cubes, designed to be frozen before use, blend cryotherapy’s perks with powerful serums, providing a potent mix of active ingredients that tighten and de-puff the skin when applied cold.

Offering similar benefits, cold sticks present a portable solution for refreshing and hydrating the skin on the go while infusing it with soothing ingredients designed to be applied directly from the fridge to cool and calm the skin, reducing puffiness, especially around the eyes. But there’s also a wide range of tools designed to offer the benefits of professional cryotherapy treatments in the comfort of one’s home, such as ice facial rollers and cryotherapy globes, which stimulate blood flow, reduce the appearance of pores and enhance the absorption of skincare products. “Refrigerating beauty tools like jade rollers, Gua Sha stones and sheet masks before use is another simple yet effective way to enhance their soothing and de-puffing effects,” Negishi suggests.

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As cold beauty treatments gain popularity, it’s essential to resolve some myths. For instance, the belief that cold water can permanently alter pore size is a misconception. “Pores do not open and close. Cold water can momentarily tighten the skin, making pores seem smaller, but this effect is temporary,” Negishi explains. While cold water can refresh and invigorate the skin, warm water excels at dissolving oils, offering a more effective cleanse. “Neither temperature, however, alters the structural aspects of pores,” she adds.

The line between beneficial and potentially harmful cold treatments can be thin. For those with sensitive skin or conditions such as rosacea, extreme cold may aggravate redness or irritation, offering a counterproductive effect to the desired soothing outcome. Similarly, overusing intense cold treatments can cause capillary damage over time, particularly if the skin isn’t gradually conditioned to the cold or if the application is too harsh. Ultimately, integrating cold treatments into a skincare routine should balance scientific insights, personal experiences and professional guidance to ensure safety and effectiveness.