Perdita Nouril
From Hailey Bieber to Brad Pitt and Idris Elba, in the world of celebrity skincare launches, it seems everyone’s trying to ride the wrinkle-busting bandwagon.
According to Business Insider, as many as 25 celebrities and influencers have launched beauty or skincare products over the course of the last three years. Yet winning a Grammy or Oscar or having millions of social followers doesn’t mean these superstars understand the complexity of formulating a skin transforming serum… or does it?
Meet the experts
WH has teamed up with award winning aesthetic doctor Dr Sophie Shotter, as well as two skincare chemists Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu, founders of Chemist Confessions podcast and authors of Skincare Decoded, to find out whether the latest star powered brands will give you an A-list looking complexion.
Fenty by Rihanna
USP: All about pores. Price: From £11
With Rihanna at the helm (she of the high-fashion bump), it shouldn’t be surprising that Fenty Beauty was among the first brands to enter the celebrity beauty space.And with a reported annual revenue of over £477m, according to the skincare e-tailor Cosmetify, it’s also among the most successful. Starting life as a make-up brand in 2017, it gave the industry new objectives to strive for by expanding the available shade ranges. Fast-forward to 2020 and RiRi added to her aesthetic empire with Fenty Skin.
The USP? Smart skincare with a clear mission: treat, smooth and tighten the look of pores. There are currently over 30 products on sale, with the recent lip oil selling out online and in Harvey Nichols.
The chemists: When we look at products, we consider the price point and any data to back up claims made by the brand, as well as notable ingredients lists. Fenty earns brownie points for having an accessible price point, solid INCI lists and data to support their claims. A word on data: the quality varies enormously; consumer perception studies are subjective and rely on how well people think a product works, while clinical studies are objective and are carried out in a highly controlled setting that use instrumental measurements to gauge the degree of improvement in the skin. The Watch Ya Tone Dark Spot Serum, is a great example; it’s backed by consumer perception studies and clinical tests that show it can deliver 30%more brightness after eight weeks.
The skin doctor: Most of the ingredients listed in the products are pretty good, particularly the inclusion of actives such as niacinamide, salicylic acid and AHAs. But it’s worth noting that there are several fragrances in some of the products, too; parfum, hexyl cinnamal, linalool and limonene can cause micro-irritation to the skin in some people.
The beauty editor: Overall, there are some hard-working formulas in this range that I truly rate and use on my own skin. I’m a huge fan of the SPF; it sits well under make-up and is mega hydrating, meaning I can skimp on moisturiser. The Undercover Blemish Defeat’r, is also a go-to for dialling down hormonal spots. And while dark spots aren’t an issue for me, I know fellow beauty junkies who swear by the Watch Ya ToneDark Spot Serum. If your skin is sensitive, this isn’t a range I’d recommend, but if you’re looking to wage war on pores an uneven skintone, look no further.
Soul Keys by Alicia Keys
USP: Psychodermatology. Price: From £12
Founded by the star in 2020 alongside dermatologist Renée Snyder, Keys Soulcare’s philosophy is about forging a connection between mind and skin. ‘I have always struggled with my skin,’said Keys – who’s famous for ghosting her make-up during public appearances – at the brand’s launch event. ‘My skin only began to change when I started to look more inside of myself, at the energy around me and taking care of every part of me.’ The brand encourages consumers to transform their skincare routine into a ritual and every product in the range includes its own affirmation.
The chemists: This has a great range of basics. Their price point is affordable and for the most part, they all seem to do a decent job, thanks to the inclusion of ingredients such as niacinamide. As for developing the range alongside a dermatologist, this involves monitoring the skin’s reaction to a product, a process that can help you discern whether it’s changed your skin. But it should be noted that a dermatologist won’t always have the same in-depth knowledge of formulations or ingredients as a cosmetic scientist.
The skin doctor: The Truly Becoming Multi-Benefit Peptide Serum, stood out
for all the right reasons; the inclusion of polypeptides will help to preserve skin elasticity
and delay the formation of wrinkles. Then, there are hydrating and stabilising ingredients such as coconut and olive oil derivatives, both of which appear relatively high up the ingredient list, meaning they feature more prominently. The Be Luminous Exfoliating Powder With Lactic Acid, also includes hard-working ingredients to create a powder exfoliator, rather than rough, grainy ingredients that could tear your skin, such as salt, sugar or walnut shell.
The beauty journalist: With burnout at its highest level since 2021, according to research by Future Forum, I’m all for a skincare brand that focuses on how you feel on the inside. These products are designed to be calming: the Golden Face Cleanser, and Harmony Mask, all smell amazing and feel luxurious, while the Skin Transformation Cream, contains a plant-based alternative to retinol called bakuchiol, which has proven to be less irritating. There could be more actives in the range, but the Be Luminous Exfoliating Powder, did give me a good glow in the short term.
Rhode by Hailey Bieber
USP: All about hydration. Price: From £16
Describing Rhode Skin as ‘sought-after’ would be to downplay the frenzy that’s ensued since model Hailey Bieber released the line last year. But the fact that 100,000 eager souls hopped on to the waiting list for her coveted Peptide Glazing Fluid, should give you a better idea. The range, which includes three skincare products and two lip products, was designed in partnership with dermatologists and chemists to give you your glowiest, dewiest skin.
The chemists: The inclusion of words such as ‘milk’ and ‘fluid’ can be confusing for consumers, who struggle to know how to incorporate them into their routines. But the expert behind the brand does give it credibility; chemist Ron Robinson is well known in the US and he’ll know how to formulate the ingredients in a way that’s the most beneficial while also considering shelf life. It’s interesting that the USP is hydration; the Glazing Milk, doesn’t feature any occlusives, such as waxes, butters or petrolatum that you’d need to lock in moisture, making it questionable for dry skin, but its lightness means it would work well for oily and acne-prone skin. The incredibly reasonable price point makes it easy to try these products out, but it’ll be interesting to see how many people buy again once the hype dies down.
The skin doctor: The range does feel gimmicky – skincare can’t give you ‘glazed skin’, that’s something you’d use make-up for. Also, I’m surprised by the inclusion of so many AHAs in the Barrier Restore Cream, as these exfoliate, rather than repair, skin. But the ingredient blend in the Glazing Milk, seems legitimate; it will do a good job of moisturising, thanks to a blend of ceramides, which should lessen trans epidermal water loss on the skin.
The beauty journalist: This range has been hyped so much that it was never going to live up to the expectations. Did the texture leave me with the glazed, dewy skin of my dreams? Initially, but it didn’t last very long. And while the line does live up to the hydration claims– my skin did feel baby soft – I’m not sure the range is powerful enough to deal with the dryness that winter brings.That said, the Peptide Lip Treatment, is a winner and a staple in my make-up bag for crease-free lips.
Le Domaine by Brad Pitt
USP: Antioxidants. Price: From £62
Created in partnership with the Perrin family, Pitt’s partners in his Château Miraval wine company, Le Domaine developed two antioxidants that can be found in all four of its products: The Cleansing Emulsion, The Serum, The Fluid Cream, and The Cream.
The chemists: The high price point is likely based on the proprietary ingredient blend
– created by the brand so they own it – which can be expensive to produce. The products have been tested in vitro – in a lab –in order to be able to call the molecules that have been developed ‘antioxidants’. Given the cost, we would have liked to see more data. And while the brand has done consumer perception studies, we would also like to see
a clinical study on humans.
The skin doctor: It’s hard to gauge what this proprietary antioxidant ingredient blend
is supposed to bring to the skin when there’s no clinical evidence to back up their efficacy as antioxidants. But, there are some good hydrating ingredients across the range. While the gold standard antioxidant for skincare is still vitamin C, resveratrol (the molecule found in grapes that the La Domaine blend is based on) has been shown to prevent photo-ageing of the skin that’s caused by UV damage.
The beauty journalist: I’m indifferent to the cleanser; it does an admirable job, but it’s no better than a dozen I’ve used before fora fraction of the price. The fluid doesn’t do enough to warrant the cost, either. But the serum is a knockout. After weeks of minimal sleep, courtesy of my two tiny dictators, my skin says otherwise. I look well-rested, my fine lines appear reduced and my skin looks smooth and healthy. It’s just a pity I’ll have to remortgage my house if I want a second bottle.
The Outset by Scarlett Johannson
USP: All about sensitivity Price: From £10
Actress Scarlett teamed up with entrepreneur Kate Foster having both spent years struggling with acne and skin sensitivities. Believing they truly understand the toll that irritated skin can have on your self-confidence, their aim is to share a solution for the increasingly common issue of sensitised, problem skin. ’I saw that so many others could identify with my skin struggles. My goal was to prove that gentle, barrier-nourishing products could deliver amazing results. And it had to be easy, as effortless as slipping on your favourite white tee,’ said Scarlett on the launch this summer. Anchored in fragrance-free, do-no-harm simplicity, there are 8 products designed for healthy skin, and a consistent routine that nourishes the moisture barrier. The Smoothing Vitamin C Eye + Expression Cream and the Restorative Niacinamide Night Cream sold out within a week of landing at CULT Beauty.
What the Chemists say: Overall, this is a line of good basics that are gentle, well rounded and are true to their brand ethos. The way that they structure their formulas is very clear. So, moisturiser, face oil, serum etc. It sometimes gets confusing with all the toners, milks and essences out there. In terms of efficacy, it appears the Outset relies on consumer perception studies. Unlike clinical testing that uses instrumental measurements to better gauge the degree of improvement in the skin, consumer perception studies rely on how well people think the product works. In this case consumers tried the products for a month, which isn’t very long. However, to be fair to brands like the outset for every month you tack on, your testing exponentially gets more expensive.
What Dr Sophie Shotter says: It would be good to see evidence that ‘Pullulan’ (found in the Firming Vegan Collagen Prep Serum) has any firming effects, as it’s predominantly known as an antioxidant. In several products the brand also use a trademarked ‘hyaluronic acid alternative’ called Hyaluroset, but I can’t find any efficacy data on this ingredient. Finally, the Smoothing Vitamin C Eye + Expression Lines Cream list its actives halfway down the ingredient list. It’s always important to look at the top ingredients listed first as these are the ones in the product in highest quantities.
WH Beauty Editor says: I did find each product extremely gentle and very nourishing on skin barrier. The oil is perfect if you have blemish prone but dry skin. I also find that some vitamin C serums are so active I can’t use them daily as they’re too irritating, but this really was gentle enough to use every day. ‘This isn’t just limited to the OutSet but ‘Consciously Clean’ is a problematic term for me. It’s unregulated and often causes unnecessary confusion amongst consumers about the safety of a product. Compared to regular preservatives, approved “clean” preservatives are thought to be less efficacious, must be used at higher percentage and often have higher risks for skin irritancy and allergenicity. Remember your skin is literally a barrier and despite a lot of incorrect ideas around absorption, it’s actually pretty good at keeping things out.
S’Able Labs by Idris and Sabrina Elba
USP: Melanin-inclusive skincare that’s sustainable. Price: From £23
S’Able Labs, a playful twist on the power couple’s surname, includes five products – two cleansers, a toner, a moisturiser and a mask. All of which pay homage to the couple’s African heritage through thoughtfully sourced ingredients such as shea butter, which comes from African shea tree nuts, and Somalian quasil. The range is described as ‘melanin inclusive’, meaning it’s suitable for all skin tones. It has also been produced with social responsibility in mind. At the brand’s launch event, the couple spoke of the ‘meaningful relationships’ they’ve built throughout their supply chain with partners who share their ‘values and commitments to evolve’.
The chemists: This range is a little hard to comprehend because, while not a full regime, it’s billed as one. But, in terms of data, the Baobab Moisturiser, and Black Seed Toner, are backed by consumer perception tests, as well as clinical studies. This is great – and in line with the typeof testing that we praised Fenty Skincare for. That said, the results of the clinical studies are slightly vague, with no numbers or percentages flagged, so it’s hard to know how much skin has improved after using the products.
The skin doctor: Overall, the Qasil Cleanser, has a good ingredient list, isn’t drying and will be adept at removing make-up and long-lasting SPF. It’s also got acne-fighting abilities and is anti-inflammatory. Meanwhile, the Black Seed Toner, has good ingredients, too, including AHA actives and calming vitamin E (so it will exfoliate nicely) along with ascorbyl glucoside, a form of vitamin C, plus other antioxidants and humectants. The Baobab Moisturiser, also contains actives Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Licorice Root, Bakuchiol.
The beauty journalist: It’s brilliant that S’Able Labs partners with suppliers who protect biodiversity and uphold socially responsible practices. As for the products: I struggle with toners as I tend to find them stripping, but this one is incredibly gentle and works well to combat dullness. The moisturiser provides long-lasting hydration, while still being light and airy. All in all? I’m impressed.
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